Saturday, February 28, 2009

Baby Blueberry Cardigan...

A simple 2-button baby cardigan, worked from the top down in one piece—no seaming!

Extra stitches were added under each arm not only to make it easy to put the sweater on and off, but also to provide more width—great for babies as they grow.

It can be worn on a little baby as a jacket or a bigger baby as a sweater. A perfect, versatile baby gift!


Supplies:


  • 2 skeins of Cascade 220 Wool (220 yards per skein) or any worsted weight yarn
  • Size 8 24” circular needles
  • Size 7 24” circular needles
  • Size 8 double pointed needles
  • Size 7 double pointed needles
  • 2 buttons (7/8” size)
  • (2) 12” pieces of scrap yarn (stitch holders for sleeves)
  • Darning needle (to attach buttons)
  • 2 safety pins
Gauge:
4 stitches = 1” on size 8 needles
Size:
9-12 months
Abbreviations:
St(s) = stitch(stitches)
K = knit
P = purl
Pm = place marker
CO = cast on
Stockinette = When working back and forth, it’s working a purl row after a knit row. When working in the round, it’s knitting every row.
Color A = dark blue
Color B = light blue
DIRECTIONS:
To create the stripe pattern, work one yarn color for 2 rows, then switch to second yarn color for 2 rows, etc. You do not need to cut yarn each time. Keep yarn hanging at the end (because your switching colors every 2 rows, it’s a short enough distance to not cause any pulling)
Neckband:
  • Using color A, cast on 52 sts onto size 7 circular needles
  • *K2, P2; repeat from * to end of row
  • Repeat above ribbing pattern until measures 1” from cast on edge ending on a right side row
Raglan Increases:
  • Change to size 8 circular needles and begin striping pattern
  • Row 1 (ws): P9, pm, P6, pm, P22, pm, P6, pm, P9
  • Row 2 (rs): *Knit to 1 st before first marker. With left needle, lift the “bar” in between sts from front to back. Insert right needle into the back of this new st and knit it. k1, move marker, K1, with left needle, lift the “bar” in between sts from back to front. Insert right needle into the front of this new st as if to knit and knit it; repeat from * to end
  • Row 3: Purl entire row, slipping marker from left needle to right needle as you reach them
  • Repeat rows 2 & 3 until there are 23 sts for each front side, 50 sts between the 2 back markers, and 34 sts for each sleeve. End on a wrong side row
Dividing Row:
  • (rs): K23, remove marker, slip left sleeve sts onto scrap yarn, remove marker, Cast on 4 sts, K50 back sts, remove marker, slip right sleeve sts onto scrap yarn, remove marker, Cast on 4 sts, K23
Body:
  • Work stockinette until measures 11.5” (or 1.5” before desired length) from cast on edge
  • Switch to size 7 needles and using just color A
  • *K2,P2; repeat from * to end
  • Repeat above ribbing pattern until ribbing measures 1.5”
  • Bind off in pattern
Sleeves (these directions are for both left and right sleeves):
  • Using size 8 DPN’s and color B, pick up sts that are on scrap yarn; 34 sts. Place marker.
  • Pick up and knit 8 underarm sts (in the arm pit area)
  • Work stockinette until measures 4” from armpit (continuing striping pattern)
  • Switch to size 7 DPNs and use just color A
  • *K2, P2; repeat from * around to marker
  • Repeat ribbing pattern until cuff measures 1”
  • Bind off in pattern
Right-Side Button Band:
  • Using color A and size 7 needles, starting at the bottom, pick up and knit 54 sts (you can pick up a different number of sts, so long as you’re picking up 3 sts every 4 rows and the end number is divisible by 2. Make note of this number on a piece of paper.)
  • Row 1: *K2, P2; repeat from * across to end
  • Row 2: *P2, K2; repeat from * across to end
  • Row 3: *K2, P2; repeat from * across to end. With safety pins, mark where you want your 2 top buttonholes. Top hole should be 4 sts in from the top. Second buttonhole should be around 1.5” below the top one.
  • Row 4: *P2, K2; repeat from * until you get to the first safety pin, remove pin, K2tog, YO twice (to make a large hole), work in pattern to second safety pin, remove pin, K2tog, YO twice, work in pattern to end
  • Row 5: *K2, P2; repeat from * across (note: when you get to double YO where you created the buttonhole, You’ll work the first YO stitch, but drop the second YO stitch)
  • Row 6: *P2, K2; repeat from * across
  • Bind off in pattern
Left-Side Button Band:
  • Using color A and size 7 needles, pick up and knit the same number of sts as for the right band
  • Row 1: *K2, P2; repeat from * across
  • Row 2: *P2, K2; repeat from * across
  • Repeat above 2 rows for a total of 6 rows
  • Bind off in pattern
Finishing:
  • Attach buttons using darning needle and color B
  • Weave in all ends
  • Block (I blocked by using a spray bottle to get the sweater damp and then pinning sweater to desired shape on blocking board)



23 comments:

Marta said...

Hello! My name is Marta and I'm from Spain. I'm knitting your sweater in Rowan Summer Tweed. I'm off gauge bit will let you know about measures and final outcome. I have arrived at the dividing row and if I haven't understood it wromg I think that it should say: Knit 23 at the beginning and at the end of the row. At least I have my marker at 23 stitches. I'm right or wrong?

Thanks for the pattern

Marta

Elizabeth said...

Hi Marta!
Thanks for the message-there was a typo in my pattern and it should be K23 at the beginning and end of row so you are right. Thanks for letting me know. I would love to see a picture of it when your done!

~jay said...

Wow, such a cute sweater and a zippy knit!
I am making one in Blue Sky Alpacas Cotton as-we-speak-- dark and light orange. Thanks so much for sharing this pattern on your blog!

~j

Mary said...

Elizabeth, I have a question about the dividing row: it looks like on the right side of the sweater, we cast on the 4 underarm stitches after placing the sleeve stitches on the scrap yarn (so they're on the back side of the sleeve), but on the left side of the sweater, we cast on those 4 underarm stitches after the sleeve stitches go on the scrap yarn (so they're on the front side of the sleeve). This doesn't sound symmetrical; am I reading the pattern wrong? I really want to make this sweater!

Elizabeth said...

Hi Mary,
For both sleeves, the underarm sts are cast on after the sleeve sts are put on scrap yarn. These underarm sts will live right under each arm, right at the armpit and will serve to connect the front and backs of each side. So you don't have to worry about it being assymetrical because for both sides these cast on sts live under each group of sleeve sts and are the "connectors" between the back side and the front sides. Does that make sense? I hope this helps!

joan said...

Hi Ellizabeth,
My name is Joan and I love the sweater. However I have forgotten how to cast on the four stitches needed in the underarm. Could you please remind me how that is done.
Thanks, Joan

Elizabeth said...

Hi Joan!
No problem--when casting on in the middle of your work, I always use the cable cast on method. There is a GREAT tutorial with photos on how to do this on the Purl Bee Blog--check it out here: http://www.purlbee.com/cable-cast-on-tutorial/.
Let me know if you have any other questions!

Jay said...

Hello. I am a beginning knitter and I am making this cardigan as my first attempt at a seater. SO far is has been very simple and fun. I have one question about the pattern that I am not clear on. When you say to pick up 8 st for the arms, does that mean 8 sts for each arm, or are they the 4 sts I cast on under each arm? In other words, is it 8 sts for each arm, or 4? Thank you for posting this adorable pattern I will keep checking your blog for updates.

Elizabeth said...

Hi Jay,

I'm glad you like the pattern! To answer your question, I meant you should pick up 8 sts per arm. Although you only casted on 4 underarm sts, you'll see that there will be an extra couple of sts to the left and right of the casted on 4, so it should be easy to pick up a total of 8 per arm.
Let me know if you have any other questions-I'm glad to help!
-Elizabeth

Jen said...

Hi! I am just starting this project and realized that my circular needles are 29" - do you think it would still be possible to make the sweater on 29" needles?
I was also thinking if there weren't enough stitches to reach, would it be hard to add stitches to make the sweater bigger? I don't want to make the project more difficult since it's my first sweater@

Macy from Buffalo, NY said...

Hi Elizabeth!
I love both cardi patterns! For the blueberry, the raglan "seam" is actually "4" stitches wide, not 3, right? So you would knit to w/i 1 st of marker, inc, knit 1 st, sm, knit 1 st, inc, and keep knitting to w/i one st of next marker - is that right? So with 4 markers per row, you are increasing 8 times, with 2 sts between each pair of increases? This seems simple, but I'm teaching a mom expecting in July and she wanted a long sleeve cardi, liked the pic of yours, & I want to make it as easy for her as I can. I also appreciate the "underarm answer" as the non-symmetry was my NEXT question, LOL! And you recommend the cable CO? Thanks SO much for your responses and your easy but lovely patterns! Macy aka Socknitrmom

Jen said...

Hi! I'm starting your pattern as my first sweater ever... I'm wondering if it would be difficult to make the sweater bigger - my daughter will be 12 months in the summer, so I'm thinking if I could make it bigger, it would last longer! Also, I have 29" circulars, so might be too big to knit this sweater? What do you think?

Elizabeth said...

Hi Jen,
You can definately use 29" circular needles instead of 24". Since this is cardigan and you are working back and forth, you're using the circular needle just like a straight needle--your not joining to work in the round. With a 29" needle you'll just extra length but it won't affect the sweater construction at all.
Let me know if you have any other questions!

Elizabeth said...

Hi Jen,
To answer your question about making the pattern for a different size, you can reference my "Little Coffee Bean" sweater (also free on my blog). Since the gauge and construction for that sweater is the same as this one, you can reference that pattern for the number of stitches to use. Hopefully that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions!

Elizabeth said...

Hi Macy,
I'm so glad you like cardigans!
You are correct with the raglan seams--The consist fo 4 sts and you are increasing 2 sts at each marker, so at each increase row you are gaining a total of 8 sts.
And I do recommend the cable cast on method for the underarm stitches--easiest way to cast on stitches in the middle of your work.
Thanks for your comments and let me know if you have any other questions!

Melissa said...

Hey,
I have started knitting your sweater and your pattern I awesome thankyou. I did have one question. When I got to the end of the dividing row I had one row of color A. When I go to pick up the stitches it says to start the sleves with color B. Would that look weird? I wonder if it is just they way I knitted it or if it is supposed to be like this? In any case the pattern is great and I even went with the same colors as you. Thanks again.

Elizabeth said...

Hi Melissa,
I'm glad you like the pattern! When you do your first row on the sleeve, it should continue the established striping pattern, so if you've only worked one row of color A, then stick with color A for that first row.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Elizabeth

Katie said...

This sweater is great! I was convinced that I was doing something wrong until I got to the dividing row. Then it suddenly made sense. Your patterns are wonderful. I am so excited to finish this for my son, but I still have some time...he's not due until January. :-)

eileen feeley said...

what do you mean when you say place marker? i never heard of place marker before. what is a place marker.

thanks
eileen

Elizabeth said...

Hi Eileen,
To answer your question about what "place marker" means: when a pattern states to "pm", it means to put a stitch marker (usually looks like a ring) on the right needle. This marker will be used as a guide (or "marker") during the pattern. For example, in this pattern, you will be instructed to knit to 1 stitch before the marker, and then you make your increase.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Elizabeth

Aimee said...

Hello, I am hopefully heading out today to purchase some yarn for this sweater. I just want to make sure that I am correct on the instructions for the Raglan increase because I am a little confused. I am a new knitter so I am sorry if this is a questions people should already know...you k until 1 stitch of the marker, then you make one and you still have the one stitch before the marker. You place the marker there now and the stitch that was once in front of the marker is now on the other side of it? I hope that made sense. Thanks so much for your help. I'm really excited about making this item.

Elizabeth said...

Hi Aimee,
What you should do is make 1, then k1, then slip the marker from left needle to right needle, k1, then make 1. I noticed the instructions weren't completely clear regarding this so I did make an update to the pattern.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Elizabeth

Cheryl said...

Hi Elizabeth,
Thank you for your pattern.
And I enjoyed reading all the questions and answers.