A friend of mine wanted a couple of hand-knit baby sweaters, so I turned to my “Little Coffee Bean Cardigan” pattern, but with some modifications. I made this version long-sleeved and the raglan increases use “m1” as the increase instead of “YO” (so the raglan is more of a raised line instead of little eyelets).
If you’d like to knit this exact version of the pattern, I’ve copied it below but with the modifications I’ve made

Little Coffee Bean v.2.0
Supplies:
• 2 skeins of worsted weight yarn (I used Cascade 220).
• Size 8 24” circular needles (or size needed to obtain gauge)
• Size 7 24” circular needles (or size needed to obtain gauge)
• Size 8 double-pointed needles (for sleeves)
• Size 7 DPNs (for sleeves)
• 5 buttons, 7/8” size
• tapestry needle
• scrap yarn
• markers
• 5 safety pins
• darning needle to attach buttons
Abbreviations:
K = knit
P = purl
st(s) = stitch(es)
pm = place marker
sm = slip marker
YO = yarn over
RS = right side of work
WS = wrong side of work
M1-R = with left needle, pick up strand in between sts, from back to front. With right needle, knit into the front of this picked-up stitch.
M1-L= wit left needle, pick up strand in between sts, from front to back. With right needle, knit into the back of this picked-up stitch
Striping Pattern: Switch colors every two rows. Do not cut yarn each time-keep yarn hanging. To keep the edge clean, when you switch colors, hold the previous color yarn to the left so that it will lie under the new strand when the first stitch is knitted. You are essentially ‘wrapping’ the old strand with the new strand so that it travels up the side of the edge as you knit.
SIZES: 3 months (6 months, 12 months)
GAUGE: 4.5 sts & 7 rows = 1"
PATTERN:
Neck:
• Using Color A and size 7 circular needles, cast on 52 (56, 60) sts
• *K2, P2; repeat from * across to end
• Working back and forth, repeat above ribbing for 1”, ending on a RS row
• (WS): P9 (9, 10), pm, P7 (8, 8), pm, P20 (22, 24), pm, P7 (8, 8), pm, P9 (9, 10)
Raglan Increases:
Now you will be working the striping pattern, starting with Color B. Change colors every 2 rows or however you want your stripes to appear. Switch to size 8 circular needles.
• Row 1: *Knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1-R, K1, sm, k1, m1-L; repeat from * until you get past the last marker, then knit to the end
• Row 2: purl across
• Repeat above 2 rows until you have 46 (50, 54) sts between back 2 markers, ending on a WS row
Dividing Row:
(RS): Knit to marker, remove it, cast on 2 sts, using tapestry needle put sleeve sts on scrap piece of yarn, remove marker, knit across back sts, remove marker, cast on 2 sts, put sleeve sts on scrap yarn, remove marker, knit to end
Now you are just working the body of the sweater:
• Work in stockinette until piece measures 3.5”(4.5”,5.5”) from underarm (continuing striping pattern the whole time)
Bottom Ribbing:
• Switch to size 7 24” circular needles
• *K2, P2; repeat from * across to end
• Working back and forth, continue ribbing pattern, knitting the knit sts and purling and the purl sts
• Repeat ribbing for 1.5”
• Bind off in pattern
Sleeves (work twice):
• Transfer sleeve sts that are on scrap yarn to 3 size 8 DPNs: 33(36,38) sts.
• Pick up and knit 4 sts at the armpit (use whichever color yarn comes next in the striping sequence), pm
• Using four size 8 DPN needles, work in the round in stockinette (continuing striping pattern) until sleeve measures 5” (5.5”, 6”) from arm pit
• Switch to size 7 DPNs and Color A
• *K2,P2; repeat from * to end
• Continue ribbing pattern, knitting the knit sts and purling the purl sts
• Repeat ribbing for .5” (.75”, .75”)
• Bind off in pattern
Right-Side Button Band:
• Starting at the bottom on the right front with RS racing you, join color A with size 7 circular needle and pick up and knit 3 sts every 4 rows (pick up and knit 3 sts, skip 1 st, pick up & knit 3 sts, skip 1 st, etc).
• Make sure the total number of sts you pick up is a number divisible by 4. Write this number done.
• *K2, P2; repeat from * across to end
• Working back and forth, work ribbing pattern for 3 rows
• Before beginning 4th row, mark with safety pins where buttonholes should go:
Top and bottom buttonholes should be 4 sts in from ends. Place other buttons 3” from each other
• Buttonhole row: *work to safety pin, remove pin, YO, K2tog; repeat from * to last buttonhole, work last 4 sts
• Work 3 more rows
• Bind off in pattern
Left-Side Button Band
• Starting at the top of the left front with RS facing you, join color A with size 7 circular needle and pick up and knit 3 sts every 4 rows, making sure you pick up the same number of sts as for the right-side button band
• Working back and forth, work 7 rows
• Bind off in pattern
Finishing
• Weave in all ends
• Block (the technique I used: using spray bottle, get sweater damp. Then pin down and shape to blocking board, ironing board, carpet, or whatever blocking surface you have and spray again so sweater is wet)
• Once sweater is dry attach buttons

4 comments:
Wow! Your cardigans look so great, and the photos are looking really nice too.
Thanks so much for providing the revision. I started this sweater last night for a friend's baby-to-be. I love stripes, so it's a perfect project. So excited!
Thank you for this great pattern! I just finished a 2T size for my son. There are photos of it on my blog: http://tinkerknits.blogspot.com/2009/08/olivers-cardigan-done-and-on-to-next.html
Very easy and oh-so-cute!
Hi Kristy,
I just checked out your blog--the sweater came out so cute and your model is adorable!!
So glad you enjoyed the pattern.
-Elizabeth
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