Little Coffee Bean v.2...

A friend of mine wanted a couple of hand-knit baby sweaters, so I turned to my “Little Coffee Bean Cardigan” pattern, but with some modifications.

I made this version long-sleeved and the raglan increases use “m1” as the increase instead of “YO” (so the raglan is more of a raised line instead of little eyelets).


If you’d like to knit this exact version of the pattern, I’ve copied it below but with the modifications I’ve made

Little Coffee Bean v.2.0

Supplies:
• 2 skeins of worsted weight yarn (I used Cascade 220).
• Size 8 24” circular needles (or size needed to obtain gauge)
• Size 7 24” circular needles (or size needed to obtain gauge)
• Size 8 double-pointed needles (for sleeves)
• Size 7 DPNs (for sleeves)
• 5 buttons, 7/8” size
• tapestry needle
• scrap yarn
• markers
• 5 safety pins
• darning needle to attach buttons

Abbreviations:
K = knit
P = purl
st(s) = stitch(es)
pm = place marker
sm = slip marker
YO = yarn over
RS = right side of work
WS = wrong side of work

M1-R = with left needle, pick up strand in between sts, from back to front. With right needle, knit into the front of this picked-up stitch.

M1-L= wit left needle, pick up strand in between sts, from front to back. With right needle, knit into the back of this picked-up stitch

Striping Pattern: Switch colors every two rows. Do not cut yarn each time-keep yarn hanging. To keep the edge clean, when you switch colors, hold the previous color yarn to the left so that it will lie under the new strand when the first stitch is knitted. You are essentially ‘wrapping’ the old strand with the new strand so that it travels up the side of the edge as you knit.

SIZES: 3 months (6 months, 12 months)

GAUGE: 4.5 sts & 7 rows = 1"

PATTERN:

Neck:
• Using Color A and size 7 circular needles, cast on 52 (56, 60) sts
• *K2, P2; repeat from * across to end
• Working back and forth, repeat above ribbing for 1”, ending on a RS row
• (WS): P9 (9, 10), pm, P7 (8, 8), pm, P20 (22, 24), pm, P7 (8, 8), pm, P9 (9, 10)

Raglan Increases:
Now you will be working the striping pattern, starting with Color B. Change colors every 2 rows or however you want your stripes to appear. Switch to size 8 circular needles.
• Row 1: *Knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1-R, K1, sm, k1, m1-L; repeat from * until you get past the last marker, then knit to the end
• Row 2: purl across
• Repeat above 2 rows until you have 46 (50, 54) sts between back 2 markers, ending on a WS row

Dividing Row:
(RS): Knit to marker, remove it, cast on 2 sts, using tapestry needle put sleeve sts on scrap piece of yarn, remove marker, knit across back sts, remove marker, cast on 2 sts, put sleeve sts on scrap yarn, remove marker, knit to end

Now you are just working the body of the sweater:
• Work in stockinette until piece measures 3.5”(4.5”,5.5”) from underarm (continuing striping pattern the whole time)

Bottom Ribbing:
• Switch to size 7 24” circular needles
• *K2, P2; repeat from * across to end
• Working back and forth, continue ribbing pattern, knitting the knit sts and purling and the purl sts
• Repeat ribbing for 1.5”
• Bind off in pattern

Sleeves (work twice):
• Transfer sleeve sts that are on scrap yarn to 3 size 8 DPNs: 33(36,38) sts.
• Pick up and knit 4 sts at the armpit (use whichever color yarn comes next in the striping sequence), pm
• Using four size 8 DPN needles, work in the round in stockinette (continuing striping pattern) until sleeve measures 5” (5.5”, 6”) from arm pit
• Switch to size 7 DPNs and Color A
• *K2,P2; repeat from * to end
• Continue ribbing pattern, knitting the knit sts and purling the purl sts
• Repeat ribbing for .5” (.75”, .75”)
• Bind off in pattern

Right-Side Button Band:
• Starting at the bottom on the right front with RS racing you, join color A with size 7 circular needle and pick up and knit 3 sts every 4 rows (pick up and knit 3 sts, skip 1 st, pick up & knit 3 sts, skip 1 st, etc).
• Make sure the total number of sts you pick up is a number divisible by 4. Write this number done.
• *K2, P2; repeat from * across to end
• Working back and forth, work ribbing pattern for 3 rows
• Before beginning 4th row, mark with safety pins where buttonholes should go:
Top and bottom buttonholes should be 4 sts in from ends. Place other buttons 3” from each other
• Buttonhole row: *work to safety pin, remove pin, YO, K2tog; repeat from * to last buttonhole, work last 4 sts
• Work 3 more rows
• Bind off in pattern

Left-Side Button Band
• Starting at the top of the left front with RS facing you, join color A with size 7 circular needle and pick up and knit 3 sts every 4 rows, making sure you pick up the same number of sts as for the right-side button band
• Working back and forth, work 7 rows
• Bind off in pattern

Finishing
• Weave in all ends
• Block (the technique I used: using spray bottle, get sweater damp. Then pin down and shape to blocking board, ironing board, carpet, or whatever blocking surface you have and spray again so sweater is wet)
• Once sweater is dry attach buttons

Mud Season...

Living in Maine, we have 5 seasons—the 5th being “Mud Season.” Its the few weeks (usually in April) when the temperature finally starts to inch its way above freezing, melting the many feet of snow that has accumulated all winter long. And when you live on a dirt road in Maine as I do, the combination of lots of melting snow + dirt = lots and lots of mud. But the funny thing is that no one really minds it-we are all so excited about winter being over that we welcome mud season with open arms. Mud season is what inspired this sweater—the rich, “muddy” brown color, the short sleeves (because winter is over!), but the wool/alpaca blend still keeps you warm (because it’s not quite spring!).

A little waist shaping is added so it’s a bit form fitting—but it’s still roomy & loose enough to wear a long sleeve shirt underneath.

Techniques used in this pattern:

• Increasing using YO and m1
• Decreasing using K2tog and ssk
• Cable cast-on method
• Working in the round from the top
• Picking up stitches

Supplies:

• Berroco Cuzco Yarn (bulky weight) : 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) skeins or 688 (727, 765, 805, 843, 880, 925) yds of bulky weight yarn
• Size 10 24” & 16” circular needle (or size needed to obtain gauge)
• Size 9 24” & 16” circular needle (or 1 size down from gauge needle) 4 stitch markers in one color and 1 stitch marker in a different color
• Scrap yarn
• Tapestry needle
• Crochet hook (to weave in ends)
• Row counter (or piece of paper to keep track of rounds)

Gauge:

3.5 sts & 5 rows = 1” in stockinette

Sizes:

S (M, L, XL, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X)

Finished Measurements:

Bust = 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48)
Length = 23.25 (23.5, 24.5, 26, 26.5, 27.5, 28, 29)"

A = 7.75 (8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11)”
B = 15.5 (15.5, 16, 17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 18)”
C = 13 (13.5, 14.25, 15, 16.25, 17.25, 18, 19)”
D = 17 (18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23)”
E = 16 (17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22)”
F = 18 (19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24)”

Abbreviations:
K = knit
P = purl
CO = cast on
st(s) = stitch(es)
RS = right side of work
WS = wrong side of work
sm = slip marker
pm = place marker
mm = main marker

kfb = increase 1 stitch by knitting into the front of stitch and then also knitting into the back of it to create 2 stitches from 1
m1 = increase 1 stitch by, with the left needle, picking up the “bar” in between 2 stitches and knitting into the back of this stitch
YO = yarn over
K2tog = decrease 1 stitch by knitting 2 sts together
Ssk = decrease 1 stitch by slipping 2 sts (as if to knit) from left to right needle, then knitting the 2 slipped sts together by inserting left needle into the front of both of the sts & then knitting them


PATTERN:

Neck:

• Using size 10 16” circular needle, CO 1, pm, CO 8 (8,8,9,9,9,9,9), pm, CO 23 (24,25,26,26,26,27,27), pm, CO 8 (8,8,9,9,9,9,9), pm, CO 1. [for this neck portion you will be working back & forth, not in the round
• Row 1: purl across
• Row 2: Kfb of 1st st, sm, YO, *K to 1 st before marker, YO, K1, sm, YO; repeat from * once, K to 1 st before 4th marker, YO, K1, sm, kfb of last st.
• Row 3: purl across
• Row 4: kfb of 1st st, YO, K1, sm, YO, *K to 1 st before next marker, YO, K1, sm, YO; repeat from * 2 times (through 4th marker), K to last st, kfb of last st
• Row 5: purl across
• Row 6: kfb of 1st st, *K to 1 st before marker, YO, K1, sm, YO; repeat from * 3 times (through 4th marker), K to within 2 sts of end, kfb in next-to-last st, K1.
• Row 7: purl across
  Repeat the last 2 rows (rows 6 & 7) 7 more times


• Total back sts (between 2nd & 3rd markers): 43 (44,45,46,46,46,47,47)
• Each sleeve: 28 (28,28,29,29,29,29,29)
• Each front: 20 (20,20,20,20,20,20,20)
  
• Next row (RS): Using cable cast-on method, cast on 4 (6,8,10,10,10,10,10) sts for front neck
  [these sts will later join the left & right front sides together since this is a pullover, not a cardigan]
• *K to 1 st before marker, YO, K1, sm, YO; repeat from * 3times (through 4th marker), K to end.
• Front should now have: 46 (48,50,52,52,52,52,52) sts

Joining Left & Right Fronts Together:

• DO NOT TURN WORK. With RS of work facing you, pm on right needle (use a different color marker than the other ones-this marker will be called the MM-main marker), join left & right fronts together by knitting into 1st st on left needle, making sure not to twist sts.

You will now be working in the round.

• Round 1: (non-increasing row): K across to end (MM)
• Round 2: (increasing row): *K to 1 st before marker, YO, K1, sm, YO; repeat from * 3 times (through 4th marker), K to end (MM).
  
  [RECOMMENDATION: because you are working in the round, it will be hard to tell which round is a non-increasing round and which is an increasing round. Use a row counter to count each round (or keep track of it on paper). If the number on the counter(or paper) is odd, you’ll know it’s a non-increasing round. If the number is even, it’s an increasing round.]
  
  Switch to size 10 24” circular needle when the sts get too crowded
  
• Repeat Rows 1 & 2 from above until there are:
• 60 (64,68,72,76,80,82,86) sts between front markers (not MM)
• 44 (46,48,51,55,59,61,65) sleeve sts (each)
• 59 (62,65,68,72,76,79,83) sts between back markers (2nd & 3rd markers)
  [End on an increasing round]

Dividing Round:

• Step 1: K across to end (MM)
• Step 2: *K to marker, remove it, put the next 44 (46,48,51,55,59,61,65) sts on scrap yarn using tapestry needle, sm from left needle to right needle (this marker will serve as one of the side markers); repeat from * 1 time, K to end (MM).


• Total sts on needles: 119 (126,133,140,148,156,161,169)
  
  You will now be working the body of the sweater. The sleeves will be finished after the body is done.

Body:

After above dividing round, work in stockinette (knitting every round since we’re working in the round) until measures 2” from underarm (should be 10 rows if gauge is correct)


Waist Shaping:

• Step 1: K to 3 sts before 1st side marker, K2tog, K1, sm, K1, ssk, K to 3 sts before next side marker, K2tog, K1, sm, K1, ssk, K to end (MM).
• Step 2: K 18 (18,18,17,17,17,17,17) rounds
• Repeat above 2 steps one more time
• Total sts on needles: 111 (118,125,132,140,148,153,161)
  
  [RECOMMENDATION: if you are more short-waisted (meaning the measurement from the back of your neck to your natural waist line is shorter than 16.5 (17,17.25,17.25,17.5,17.5,18,18)", then you can decrease the amount of rounds in step 2 above. This will customize the fit of this sweater so it first your particular body shape better.]

Increase for hips:

• Step 1: K 5 (6,8,9,10,11,11,11) rounds
• Step 2: *K to 1 st before marker, m1, K1, sm, K1, m1, K to 1 st before 2nd side marker, m1, K1, sm, K1, m1, work to end (MM).
• Repeat above 2 steps 2 more times
• Total sts on needle: 123(130,137,144,152,160,165,173)

The sweater should now measure around 21.25(21.5,22.5,24,24.5,25.5,26,27)” in length. If not, continue in stockinette until you reach this measurement (or 2” above desired length)

Bottom Ribbing:

• Switch to size 9 24” circular needles
• *K2, P2; repeat from * around to end (MM) (note: you can remove the 2 side markers as you reach them. Since waist shaping is complete you have no need for them.)
• Repeat ribbing, knitting the knit sts and purling the purl sts for 2”
• Bind off in pattern

Sleeves:

• Take sts on scrap yarn and transfer to size 10 16” circular needle.
• Pick up and knit 2 underarm sts, pm, join for working in the round
• Work in stockinette until measures 2.25(2.5,2.75,3,3,3.25,3.5,3.75) from underarm or 1” before desired length
• Switch to size 9 16” circular needle, *K2,P2; repeat from * around
• Continue in ribbing pattern, knitting the knit sts and purling the purl sts for 1”
• Bind off in pattern
• Repeat all of the above steps for the 2nd sleeve

Neck Band:

• Using size 9 24” circular needle, with right side of work facing you, join yarn at top left shoulder
• Pick-up and knit all sts around the neck (number should be divisible by 4)
• Pm, join for working in the round
• *K2, P2; repeat from * to end
• Continue in ribbing pattern for 1.5” or desired length
• Bind off in pattern

Finishing:

• Weave in all ends with crochet hook
• Block (the technique I used was spraying the sweater generously with water using
  a spray bottle until all damp, then pinning it to shape, following the finished measurements noted at beginning of
  pattern)